Lefkas marina to Little Vathi, Meganisi

Good bye, Lefkas Marina. We're off to Meganisi, two hours away.

Chló at the helm, heading down the Lefkas canal.

My turn to steer.

We are tied up at the town quay in little Vathy. There are only five yachts here so far.

Relaxing in the cockpit while the crew cooks lunch.

Spring is nearly here!

Spring is here!

This has been my berth all winter but as of April 1, I will need to move because high season rates will begin to be applied to all yachts in the Lefkas marina.

And so, I have invited a young helper to get Eidos ready for another season of cruising the Greek Islands. 

Chló rode her bike all the way from France, and luckily for me,  she made Lefkas and Eidos one of her stops.

Chló hard at work.

Sunrise on a cold day in March.

Cleaning out the galley is the first job.

Cooking lunch.

Strawberries and whipping cream for desert.

Plum tree in bloom. Or is it apple?

Leaving Lefkas marina.

The swing bridge heading for maintenance to Piraeus.

Waiting for the replacement swing bridge to open up so I can get out.

It's a ferry, it's a bridge. It swings to let yachts and boats in and out of the Lefkas canal.

I went through that narrow gap.

Closing again to let cars and trucks across.

Out of Lefkas canal and heading north for Preveza.

Hospital Bay north of Preveza. Safe anchorage for coming westerlies. Only two boats today.

Day 2. Marina Lefkas is under lock-down.

This morning all boat owners at the marina received the following message from the manager:

"We would like to inform you that for the week 16-23/03/2020 the reception office will be closed. Of course, we will be here so any services, requests, etc can be fulfilled. You may submit them either by email at lefkas@d-marin.com tel: +30 26450 26645 and +30 6937 390390 or by calling us on VHF channel 69. Also please be advised that all activities will be minimized and we would like to remind you the following measures taken by the state and relevant health authorities:

a) Stay home (in your case STAY ON BOARD)

b) Follow the simple rules for personal hygiene.

b) Avoid gathering either indoors or outdoors

c) Monitor all announcements for containing the spreading of the virus.

e) Do not sail, whenever the weather permits you, because we don't know if we will get an order for closing the marina, therefore, you won't be allowed to return on your berth.

S T A Y   O N  B O A R D"

In the afternoon, a new directive was put in place for all new arrivals to Greece to self-isolate for 14 days. This means, stay home, stay onboard. There is a family here that has offered to go shopping for anyone who needs it. We have a good community.
I am so glad to have gone for my run yesterday morning and a walk in the afternoon. 

Day 1. Coronavirus prevention in Lefkas

Saturday, March 14, 2020.
The coronavirus cases increase to 228 and deaths to three in Greece. The government has introduced new emergency measures in order to try and contain the virus and limit exposure. 
All the cafes, restaurants, and bars are closed as of today. The schools, gyms, theatres, cinemas, museums, archeological sites have already closed earlier in the week. At the moment, the supermarkets, chandleries (important to boaters) and other shops are still open but there is talk of reducing the opening hours. 
I went for a walk on Sunday afternoon and where usually the town is full of families enjoying time together, this time the streets and cafes were empty. I only saw a few people looking somewhat lost and a police car driving by perhaps to check that nothing was open. I found a small convenience shop open where I bought a soda and a pharmacy where I picked up a package of paracetamol just in case. 

Empty streets.

Small convenience shop was open on an otherwise empty pedestrian street.

I miss the cafe culture the most as I'm sure most Greeks do. Porto cafe in the Lefkas Marina has closed its doors on Friday night. People seem lost as to what to do instead of their usual morning ritual. Some gather in front of the closed cafe regardless and meet their friends for a smoke, or at the ends of the docks for a chat at arm's length distance, others sit on benches by the harbor.
I have gone shopping several times already to stock up on groceries and supplies. This morning the farmers' market was super busy and I bought big bags of apples and oranges to last for a couple of weeks. I am now trying to stay on board and not expose myself to a possible infection unnecessarily but others find it more difficult and they're sitting in front of the closed Porto Cafe chatting. My neighbor went out hunting for a meeting place that is open and succeeded in only finding some cold beer to take out. I have plenty of work to do on board and the sun is out so the self-imposed isolation is not so bad at the moment. 
So far, we're still allowed to go out, so I went running on Sunday morning and finally completed the C25K app (couch to 5km). Now to speed up a bit before continuing with the 10k app if possible, but it looks like the whole country will be closing its borders on Monday and further restrictions on movement will be imposed.

Planning for winter aboard in the Ionian

I will be spending the winter aboard Eidos this year, so September is a good time to look for a safe harbour. The days are already getting shorter, mornings are damp and cool and there are a few clouds on the horizon. hot cup of coffee is a welcome drink in the morning. Winter is coming. 
Although in Greece, the winters are very mild compared to northern Europe and Canada. The sun often shines, you can swim in the sea until November, it's the best time to hike, and of course catch up on boat maintenance and other work that has been put aside while sailing. And that's what my plans include.
But right now in early September by nine o'clock it's back to bathing suit weather. Time for a swim, however planning ahead is wise.
In the Ionian there are several full service marinas that welcome liveaboards. One is Gouvia Marina on Corfu, another in Preveza a third one in Lefkas and one more in Little Vathi on Meganisi.
There are also several harbours and anchorages where cruisers with independent heaters on board have stayed. Vliho Bay is popular as is Tranquil Bay on Lefkada Island. I know one couple who stayed in Vathi on Ithaka for a winter and several boats stayed in Vonitsa in the Amvrakikos Bay. There is also a marina and boat yard in Messolonghi, but they've been having management problems. I have contacted them already for the latest information. So, there is quite a choice.
But how to decide...
Since I am now in Ag. Eufimia on Kefalonia and planning to head to Ithaka, I will check out Vathi while I am there. Ithaka is one of my favourite islands in the Ionian and I have friends who live ashore there. It would be fun to spend the winter hiking and hanging out on Ithaka. But, will it be safe and comfortable on board? It's time to take a look.
I am also planning a writers' retreat aboard for this winter, with good food, yoga, and walks, so if you would like to join me and finish that novel or memoir, send me a message.

Work to sail - April - October 2017

Full moon over Preveza

I live on my 32-foot (10 m.) sailboat in the Ionian, Greece. I need some help with the boat to get it launched in the spring of 2017, which is mostly cleaning but also  anti-fouling. After about a week or ten days, we will go sailing.
I am looking for one  mature, non-smoking, addiction free, fit, agile and healthy person and especially someone who has some carpentry skills. Preferably a woman because there is not much privacy on board. This summer we will be repairing the teak deck. However, people with electrical, plumbing and varnishing skills are also welcome and there is always work available cleaning, sanding and painting. You should know how to use basic tools and have neat work habits.

Sailing the Ionian

It doesn't look like Eidos will fit through there!

For anyone interested in sailing in the Ionian, here are some pointers: sail from north and head south (the wind and current will be more favourable), avoid August, which is crazy and there is NO room anywhere (I plan to stay at anchor in one safe place for the entire month next year), learn how to med moor using your anchor, and stay longer - it's a beautiful area. I'm writing an article about the subject, so keep checking your favourite cruising magazine. The best guide I found for the Ionian is Rod Heikell's, "Ionian" published by Imray.

Winter in Greece

I know, it's only early November, but my heater is blasting away and we've just had another gale blow through Levkas Marina. I didn't want to be outside to check the anemometer at the height of the storm, but it was at least 40 knots as I have a wind alarm set for 40. However, Eidos with double mooring lines on the bow and a hopefully strong mooring holding her stern was fine. A boat across from me, though had a problem - their mooring moved and she was hitting the dock with her bow.

Like I said, Eidos was fine, but with her bouncy motion she managed to pull tight on the power cable and in some mysterious way, that electricity works, my power went out at the worst possible time when it was still dark and cold. I had no intention of going outside into the madness, so I put on another pot of tea, got a second blanket on the settee, turned on one of the 12 volt lights, and waited while catching up on my reading.

Eventually, the rain stopped and I ventured outside. Nothing seemed wrong with the cable on the outside, but I knew that the splice in the middle was probably the cause of the problem, so I cut it off and stripped some more wires for a new splice. Hmmm. The blue wire was black instead of shiny copper colour. I wonder why. Nevertheless, not a good sign. A neighbour told me that it was just oxidized and should work, so I spliced it again just for
the heck of it, but no go.

Off to the marina shop. How much for that cable over there, please? 2.50E per metre. Wow, thanks but I think I'll try something else. I needed 15 meters, so that would have been 37.50 euros ($50) for a bit of cable. Amazing. I went back to the boat to see if I could resurrect the cable I had. After cutting off another few inches, I found the blue plastic covered
wire once more shiny.

I spliced it again and with a couple of extension cords I could probably make it work. However, by then it started looking like an accident waiting to happen. Too many plugs joined together outside in the weather and over the water. Besides, I couldn't fit one of the plugs through my cowl vent where I usually lead my power cord. I needed another plug that I could take apart, fit through first, and then re-attach inside.

So, off to town since the marina shop didn't have the right one. Good thing I did too. A five-minute walk away, in a proper electrical supply shop, I could buy the same identical cable for 0.60 euro per metre! Total bill: 9 euros. Unbelievable.

Back on the boat, I set to work once again. Soon, the new cable was ready. I plugged it in and - magic! I had power. So now, the little heater is purring again and I have plenty of power to update my blog. Lesson learned: never, never, never buy anything in the marina shop if you're cruising on a shoestring budget like I am.

Over the rest of the afternoon, the barometer rose millibar by millibar and the wind and rain eased. It blew again last night but I think we are back to good weather today and it looks like nothing really happened. Quick to come, quick to go... Next time I'll take a photo in the middle of the gale (through a plastic bag of course).

Still, I'm thinking, perhaps the Caribbean next winter? Or at least the Red Sea?

Lefkas Marina, Ionian Islands, Greece

I am on Lefkas Island in the Ionian Inland Sea. It has been a wonderful summer here on the west coast of Greece. I've explored Corfu, Lefkas, Meganisi, Ithaca and a bit of Kefalonia. But now, Eidos is settled for the winter in a marina, safe, just in case a sudden storm comes up. The mornings are already cool, and we've already had some rain and thunderstorms, but during the day when the sun is up, it still feels like summer. My neighbors have been swimming at a local beach! I have to go and see for myself - I'm a warm water babe though.
It looks like there will be plenty to do here; Sunday sailing races, hikes, inland exploring, shopping in town, and perhaps the occasional day sail if the weather allows. Scorpios (Onassis' island) is nearby and many beautiful anchorages all over the place.
Since I arrived here last week, I've been busy with my writing, catching up on emails and also with a writers' workshop that is in the planning stages. I think I might start running again and there is maintenance work on the boat. There is a good community of liveaboards staying for the winter, so no shortage of people to talk to and visit with and of course the town is only a five minute walk away. I'm looking forward to the next few months of staying put in one place.
Ciao for now,
Barbara

Levkas

And cheap Internet! Also I think I might be able to download some photos. It's not really a beautiful place and I long to go for a swim (not a good idea in the harbour), so will have to take a day off to go to the beach somewhere, but so convenient in all other ways. Even free to tie up to the quay. And so understandably I'm reluctant to move. New crew arriving soon and then we'll cruise the rest of the Ionian islands. Perhaps stay here for the winter? Sail north to Croatia next spring? Or, spend the winter on Aegina Island where a friend has a house? Or Turkey? Or....? So many options and all of them equally enticing. Greece is really wonderful so far although I am a bit nervous of the Meltemi winds in the Cyclades. I don't like the idea of force 7-8 winds ANYWHERE. Call me a fair weather sailor. Ciao for now.

Oops, I think I deleted one of my posts by mistake! The trouble with this blog is that the instructions as to POST, EDIT and DELETE etc, are all in Greek! And my Greek so far is limited to Please, Thank You and Good Morning. Sorry about that, I'll try to recover it.