Dolphins in the Strait of Sicily

We saw these dolphins while sailing off the east coast of Tunisia in the spring of 2007. They stayed with us for about an hour, playing in front of and around Eidos. There are dolphins in the Ionian as well and we saw a large pod in the Gulf of Amvrakikos on the way to Vonitsa but the camera was down below so I didn't get any photos. Of course, dolphins are known to be camera shy and tend to dive as soon as they see one.
There is also popular advice to those of us who worry about getting rammed by whales in mid ocean. If you see one getting a bit too close, just grab your camera and try to get a photo. We had two whales play near my previous boat in the Sea of Cortez and one actually dove under Fenix. This was little unnerving as Fenix was a 26 ft. Folkboat without an engine.

Camel ride in the Sahara

Mohamed making breakfast

We slept in THAT!

Camels in the Sahara

suicide ride in luage

Rob, my crew, and I decided that we had to see the Sahara even if it involved a 10 hour on-the-edge-of-your-seat ride in three different luages (8 passenger vans) – note how close we are to the hay truck in front of us. We were passing three and four cars and trucks at a time the whole way south. It seems that the drivers get paid by the trip, so the faster they drive the more trips they can do in a day.
The luage way of travel is actually very convenient and cost effective. They have no schedule, they leave the station as soon as they are full and then the next one starts filling up. Compared to the 40-seater bus we took on the way back, the luage cost 8TD more and took two hours longer, but we were able to take breaks when needed and didn’t have to worry about schedules. They are also the perfect way to travel short distances where large buses don’t go.
The desert trips begin in Douz, and we decided to take an overnight one, riding camels and sleeping in a tent. There are other choices (day trips, 4x4 instead of camel ride and multi day). However, after an hour on the camel, I decided to walk the rest of the way – now I know why they are mostly used for hauling gear – not the most comfortable ride for a novice.
Nevertheless, one of the highlights of my stay in Tunisia.

Sand in my tea

My crew, Rob and I went on an overnight Sahara expedition. Riding on a camel is not easy because they wobble as they walk. I ended up getting down and walking which was way more comfortable.  

We are still in Tunisia waiting for the wind to ease from the daily NW 20-30 knots. Every day I check the forecast and we decide, "perhaps tomorrow we'll go". And then it's the same story the next day. We tried to leave twice already and had to turn back.

My pen drive email program isn't working here either - it receives but refuses to send - so please forgive the lack of responses. Only in Tunisia - it worked fine in Europe. Too far to carry the laptop for MS Outlook Express; so I struggle with the slow connection and the french/ arabic keyboard every few days at the Internet cafe. I now have my mail on four separate systems - one of these days you'll likely receive four copies of the same letter.

Meanwhile Rob, is helping out with some much needed maintenance on the boat and over all we're enjoying life. Fresh fish from the local fishermen at our dock; baguettes and produce from the town market. Perhaps I'll settle down here? Hmmm. No, Italy has much better wine AND internet access.

Back on board in Tunisia

07:30 Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Port Yasmine Hammamet, Tunisia : 36°22'296’’N, 10°32'786’’E.
Barometer: 1020mb, Temperature: 75°F, Wind: E0-5knots, Sky: light overcast

I arrived at the marina yesterday about noon to find that due to construction, Eidos has been moved by the staff sometime during my absence. She has also sustained damage to the bow roller from having hit a concrete quay during some heavy weather.

According to friends who have spent most of the winter at the marina, the stern mooring has moved and that the marina is insured. Whether I’ll collect for damages, remains to be seen. However, my first project after arrival was to move Eidos again, out of reach of the dust and noise of the construction and hopefully closer to WiFi Internet antenna at the office.

The second problem that friends mentioned was hearing a beeping noise inside the boat. It turned out to be low battery alarm on the smoke sensor. I replaced the battery and the noise stopped. While below, I also checked the bilge and found it to contain about 18 inches of water. Thanks to a deep bilge, the floor was dry. However, this also means that there is a problem either with the bilge pump, the batteries, or the solar panel that is supposed to keep the batteries topped up. I pumped the bilge out with the hand pump, but nevertheless, this is one of the projects I need to tackle today.

In the afternoon, I gave Eidos a quick hose down to remove most of the sand and grime, but today I’ll need to do a more thorough cleaning inside and out. Other than the above-mentioned items, Eidos seems to have survived the winter reasonably well without me. I regret however, that I couldn’t stay onboard and tackle the many maintenance jobs that need to be addressed. Oh well, poco a poco.

This morning, there is enough power in the battery to turn on the propane solenoid, so I’m happily drinking coffee and eating yoghurt that Madelaine has thoughtfully given me along with a couple of oranges, while the heater is removing the winter moisture from the bunks and lockers. The curser on my laptop is staying put where I leave it, and so I’m typing away, happy to be back home.

Now to see if I have Internet access…

Not my email, but perhaps this will post.

Tunisia

I'm back in Tunisia, but having trouble sending mail. Just like last year. No problem receiving, just sending. So, if you haven't heard from me lately, please be patient; I should be back in Italy soon. I'll try again in a large hotel but in town, Internet access and use seems to be closely monitored.

Tunisia to Canada

That's southern Sardinia down there and I'm on my way from Tunis to Barcelona.

Well, another summer is over in the Mediterranean. The weather is still warm and sunny at least in Tunisia, but other things call me and so I am now in Canada visiting family. Cold and gray here! No outdoor cafes either.
Still getting over jet lag - talk about a long flight- Tunis to Barcelona then two days later over to London. Spend a night at the Lyton and Heathrow airports followed by a seven hour flight to Toronto. Sailing is easier...

AFRICA!!!!

We made it! Eidos is moored safely in Yasmine Hammamet marina and we've been doing some inland travel by taxi which is the safest and most practical way to travel. 

El Jem coloseum - UNESCO heritage site
click for more information

Carpet seller's shop - a must see in
Tunisia

A dromedary at work

Mosque at Kairuan
see more here

Fishing is great in Tunisia

Yes, that's exactly where we are! Tunisia - about 100 miles south of Sicily and a world away. Talk about culture shock. Great sail across strait of Sicily with 15 knots of wind on the beam and nearly flat seas. Lots of traffic though - all those big ships heading for either Gibraltar or Suez.

Tomorrow we hope to do a bit of land touring and Eidos is getting put away for the winter. Time to think about visiting family and friends back home and catching up on life in Canada. Perhaps I'll finally be able to catch up here too!

Sorry if I haven't responded to your emails yet - Internet access is very sporadic and unreliable. I wrote a page here yesterday and then it didn't load. Talk about frustrating! Hope it works today. Fingers crossed.