The very narrow entrance to Solier, Mallorca

 Yes, that is where we need to go to get out of the harbour and of course the rocks on both sides slant down to make the passage even narrower for a sailboat's keel. Good thing it's a calm day.

Some Images of Mallorca...

These photos are from several driving excursions around the western part of the island.

Cruising around Mallorca, Spain

Notice how tiny the white boat is next to Isla Dragonera's cliffs in the first photo. The watch tower at the top of the rock would have been an amazing place from which to watch the sea for pirates and invaders.

The harbour on the bottom right hand corner image is in Solier - the only safe refuge on Mallorca's nearly 50 nautical mile long northwest coast. You don't want to be caught out near those rocks when the Tramontana blows!

The top right hand photo is from Ibiza's west coast - it is just as forbidding as Mallorca's. Don't try to anchor there, the water is often 200 feet or so deep right up to the rocks.

Eidos under sail

This is what Eidos looks like under sail. The photo was taken by Heidi and Hans on the northwest coast of Mallorca and as you can probaby guess we're motor-sailing. Stunning scenery, though, don't you think?

Living Aboard in Spain

I like living aboard in Spain. In Port d’Andratx, I’m two minutes away from the friendly fruit and vegetable market whose owners greet me with a ‘Hola’ and a smile each day. They correct my bad attempt at Spanish pronunciation of words such as ‘tomate’, ‘pimiento’, ‘pepino’ and ‘lechuga’ for my 'ensalada' and teach me new words that I forget before the day is over. Yet, some of it sticks and together with hand signals and the odd sketch on a paper napkin, I’m now able to make myself understood in my daily life. I try not to speak English if possible, even though most of the shop owners and restaurant waiters are multilingual. They have to be, to run a business and I often hear them switch from German to English, then to Spanish and also their native Mallorquin within the span of a couple of minutes according to the nationality or preference of each customer. As for me, learning a new language is one of the thrills of cruising.

Summertime...

Summer time, and the living is easy...

Yes, October can still be nice, but these photos are from July and August. I'm just slow downloading them... Right now we're expecting a bit of clouds and even some rain, so I won't bore you with those images. Ugh!

Oh, and I think I might have crew for the passage to Barcelona. James, an old friend might come from the U.K. if he can find a cheap flight out.

Port d'Andratx

Port d'Andratx, Mallorca has an active fishing fleet and a fresh seafood market every weekday afternoon.

Or perhaps Barcelona?

I’m starting to think seriously about sailing to Barcelona. Yesterday, a shop owner told me that in November most of the tourist shops and restaurants in Port d'Andratx shut their doors until Easter and a neighbour at the docks confirmed my fears that life aboard as a solo sailor in a small town in winter can be quite lonely. Also the winter storms make the harbour quite dangerous if the wind and waves come from the south. Palma de Mallorca, the main city on the island is an hour away, but an hour there and an hour back is a long ride on the bus if you've been invited to lunch. And if you want to do something in the evening it means taking a 40 Euro taxi ride home.

On the other hand, Barcelona is an overnight sail across shipping channels. Hmmm. I would need crew. However, I hear that it is even warmer there than on Mallorca, easier to fly out of and I’m sure my social life would improve – many things to do and many more cruisers in the marinas. I have a couple of weeks to decide before the winter lows start to make their way south.

Behind Every Cloud ... Hides a Rainbow

This is what my view was like yesterday afternoon and today, it’s back to being grey and drizzly so I don’t feel like taking photos (and how come weather forecasters still get paid even when they’re wrong?). No problem, I’m catching up on my writing – I only wish my WiFi antenna would behave better.

Los pescadores

A day in the life of Port d'Andratx fishermen

They must start work at four in the morning because I hear the engines rumble to life about four thirty. As the boats back out, turn around and then head out towards the breakwater at the end of the marina docks, I see the men already at work under the deck lights while the small navigation lights keep the skipper company up on the bridge.

I often see the boats when I’m sailing, but today I stay at the marina and see them return just before five in the afternoon, together and one by one in a single file as if some distant alarm sounded the end of their work day. Yet, the day is not done. After tying back up to the wall or rafting up to their compadres, the men now sort and clean the fish on deck, while the tourists gather to gawk.

The market is not far, so a small van does the delivery and the fish is as fresh as you can get without catching it yourself. Restaurant chefs and eager housewives jostle for position at the display counter while their choice is weighed and wrapped.
Fish for dinner tonight. Salud!

Winter coming

The above collage is made up of some images from my recent cruise to the other side of the island. The friends are Sue, Francoise and Albert. The fisherman, who is sitting in the chair, told me about the trouble the dolphins cause by ripping the nets. And he also said that there are whales in the Mediterranean. I haven't seen any yet. Dolphins, yes. Wish they could co-exist peacefully with the fishermen.

And so today I moved to my winter spot at the docks. The space is only on the other side of the pontoon but required a half hour's work taking the sunshade off, unplugging power, stowing the laptop, untying lines, motoring around the docks and then re-doing it all again in reverse order. I had to learn how to med-moor when I first entered the Mediterranean, but it is actually easier to do than side tying to a dock. All I do is head straight into the dock, fenders hanging on both sides and first tie the two bow lines to the dock cleats and then attach the mooring line to Eidos' stern cleat. It takes some getting used to climbing over the bow rail to get off the boat, but this system gives me more privacy and is easy to do singlehanded.

Some people back into the dock, but since I have a windvane on the stern, and since Eidos doesn't like backing to where she can't see, bow first is much more preferrable.

Staying at the docks in the Balearic Islands doesn't have to be expensive. Beginning in the middle of September the price for Eidos has been little over 3 Euros per day not including power and water, compared to summer prices of 60 Euros and up per day. I'm not complaining.

Peppers and Bras, Undies and Candies at the weekly market in Andratx, Mallorca

Peppers and Bras

Undies and Candies

You can find just about anything at the weekly outdoor market in Andratx. It's a great all-day outing by bus from the harbour. I leave early in the morning and after the market closes stop for coffee or lunch and watch the world go by. I must buy a shopping cart on wheels for all the goodies!

Port d'Andratx, Mallorca, Balearic Islands, Spain

This is the cafe, where I spend the odd hour or two, sometimes reading the local, English language newspaper, sometimes with my laptop, catching up on email or doing my own writing and sometimes meeting with friends. Behind me are the docks where Eidos is moored.

Port d'Andratx is a small town about an hour away by bus or car from Palma de Mallorca. Its main industry seems to be tourism and fishing. The harbour is quite safe most of the time and the surrounding scenery stunning.

The fisherman in this photo is repairing his nets right downtown where the fishing boats tie up for the night. They leave at five in the morning and return at five in the afternoon, Monday to Friday. I love watching them leave, one after another, in the early dawn, like ducks in a row, heading out to sea.

Welcome To My Cruising Log

Hello, everyone. 
As some of you know, I'm now in Mallorca, Spain on my sailboat, Eidos. I'm thinking of staying here for the winter with perhaps a visit to mainland Europe, and Canada over the holiday season. Right now it is still sunny and hot during the day but getting cool at night and I've started turning on the heater first thing in the morning. Winter is approaching. Yesterday we had a solar eclipse together with a new moon. I hope that's a good sign for the days to come.
I hope that this will be a good way of keeping my family and friends up to date with what I'm doing. The nice part of blogs is that people with whom I've lost touch over the years might be able to find me again and renew our connection. And dear friends and family, as you read this, perhaps forward this link to those who might remember me. Thanks.

Until next time,
Barbara